Pozole Blanco (Pork and Hominy Stew)

Cross-posted from the official The World in a Skillet website.

When we initially started work on The World in a Skillet, we wrote a lot of great material, but it quickly became obvious that if we were to include everything we had originally hoped to include, no one would be able to lift the finished book. This is a recipe that didn’t make it into the book from one of the subjects in our chapter on Mexico.

Pozole has been a part of the Mexican diet since pre-Columbian times. While “pozole” is the name of this hearty soup, the soup is based on “posole,” or hominy. While the meat and accompaniments may differ across the regions of Mexico, the posole in the soup is a constant.

As Armando Rodriguez of Mobile, Alabama, tells us, pozole is a common dish in Mexican home kitchens. He grew up on pozole and still eats it often in his home today. It’s easy to see why. This simple recipe creates a hearty stew that offers great variety and all of the components of comfort food.

The flavor of hominy is such an important part of this stew. It brings the flavors of corn, but it also brings the Southern flavor of grits to the mix. Since ground hominy is the base for corn tortillas, you’ll notice the flavor of them even if you’ve never eaten hominy.

Pozole Blanco (Pork and Hominy Stew)

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 2 hours, 30 minutes

Total Time: 3 hours

Yield: 8 main dish servings

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds pork shoulder or loin
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 head garlic, split into peeled cloves
  • 1 large white onion, quartered
  • 1 gallon water
  • 1 (28-ounce) can white or yellow hominy corn, drained
  • Salt
  • Garnishes:
  • Cabbage, shredded
  • White onion, diced
  • Radishes, thinly sliced
  • Limes, cut into wedges
  • Cilantro
  • Avocado, diced
  • Mexican oregano, dried
  • Crushed red chile flakes
  • Corn tortillas

Instructions

  1. Place the pork in a large stockpot along with the bay leaf, garlic, and the quartered onion. Cover the pork with the gallon of water and bring to a boil over medium--high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the pork for 2 hours.
  2. Strain out the bay leaf and garlic and discard. Strain out the pork and allow it to cool enough to handle, reserving the broth. Shred the pork and add the meat to the broth with the drained hominy and return to a simmer for another 30 minutes.
  3. Season to taste with salt.
  4. Serve with garnishes so that diners can add them at the table.
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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2012/01/27/pozole-blanco-pork-and-hominy-stew/

Kitchen Passport
If pozole blanco is a little too mild for your tastes, Armando recommends his family’s variation. Grind 1 dried ancho chile in a blender with 2 or 3 whole cloves. Add this to the pozole when you add the hominy. If this still seems mild to you, add some cayenne pepper to spice it up or a second ground ancho chile.

East Tennessee Caramel Popcorn

We’ve been traveling across our state a lot this year, and two of our favorite Tennessee products have to be country ham and sorghum molasses (or sorghum syrup or sweet sorghum — whatever you want to call it). For a Christmas snack, we decided to put those flavors together, and they’re very happy that way.

East Tennessee Caramel Popcorn

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Total Time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces country ham
  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 1 1/2 cup sorghum molasses
  • 6 cups popped popcorn

Instructions

  1. Slice the ham as thinly as possible. If you can see through it, you've got it about right. Try not to snack on too much.
  2. Mince the sliced ham.
  3. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the ham as you would bacon. You want to render as much of the fat from the ham as possible and slightly crisp the ham, about 5 minutes. Drain the cooked ham on a paper towel-lined plate. Leave any grease still in the pan.
  4. With the heat still on medium, add the stick of butter. Because country ham is salty, using unsalted butter is a must. Allow the butter to melt, about three minutes.
  5. Add the sorghum molasses and begin stirring until the syrup mixture comes to a rolling boil. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until a caramel forms that is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon or leave a clear path when you drag a spoon through it along the bottom of the pan, about 10 minutes. Remove the caramel from the heat, and work quickly to add it to the popcorn while it is still hot.
  6. Pour about half of the popcorn in a large mixing bowl. Add half of the fried ham and half of the prepared caramel. Using tongs or buttered hands, toss the popcorn to blend the ham and caramel through evenly. Add the rest of the popcorn, ham, and caramel and repeat. Expect some popcorn balls to naturally form.
  7. Let the caramel popcorn rest for 5 minutes before enjoying.

Notes

We love country ham from Allan Benton in Madisonville. If you can't get to country ham near you, don't worry - he ships. We used sorghum from Muddy Pond, a Mennonite community in north Middle Tennessee. While you can find sorghum in most country stores and even some supermarkets, again, don't worry - Muddy Pond will ship directly to your door. Feel free to add toasted nuts to the popcorn. We recommend red-skin peanuts or pecans.

You're going to be working with sticky sugar that is very hot. If it splashes on your bare skin, immediately place the affected area under cold running water until the caramel cools enough to pull away. It probably won't happen, and it won't kill you if it does, but it will hurt if it does, and you should be prepared and have some aloe on hand. We also recommend using silicon spoons and tongs to make your cleanup easier. These are our favorites.

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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2011/12/23/east-tennessee-caramel-popcorn/

Hot and Numbing Rabbit

Cross-posted from the official The World in a Skillet website. We are posting what we call “deleted scenes” recipes, recipes that are great but that we didn’t have room for in the book. Become a fan of our Facebook page and get a look at the recipes two weeks early.

Hot and Numbing Rabbit

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 35 minutes

Yield: 4 main dish servings

Ingredients

    For the marinade:
  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1 tablespoon cold water
  • 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
  • 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
  • For the sauce:
  • ½ teaspoon cornstarch
  • 3 tablespoons cold water
  • 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • ½ teaspoon chili oil
  • For the main dish:
  • 12 ounces boneless rabbit (meat from 1 26-ounce whole rabbit) or 4 boneless chicken thighs, cubed
  • 1 ¼ cups peanut or canola oil
  • ¼ cup peanuts
  • 1 dried Tsin Tsin chili, seeded and chopped
  • 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
  • 3 scallions, sliced thin
  • ¼ teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
  • 2 teaspoons whole Szechuan peppercorns, crushed
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • To serve:
  • Cooked white rice

Instructions

    To prepare the marinade:
  1. In a small bowl, blend together the cornstarch and cold water until no lumps remain.
  2. Stir the Shaoxing wine and light and dark soy sauces into the cornstarch and water mixture.
  3. Stir the cubed rabbit into the marinade to rest while you are preparing the remaining ingredients.
  4. To prepare the sauce:
  5. In a small bowl, blend together the cornstarch and cold water until no lumps remain.
  6. Stir the soy sauce, rice vinegar, and chili oil into the cornstarch mixture, combining thoroughly.
  7. To prepare the dish:
  8. Heat the oil in a wok over high heat.
  9. Carefully add the marinated meat to the hot oil and fry for 30 seconds. Remove the meat from the wok and allow the oil to reheat.
  10. Return the meat to the hot oil and fry for 3 minutes or until golden.
  11. Remove the meat from the wok and carefully drain all but 3 tablespoons of the oil. Return the wok to high heat.
  12. Working quickly and stirring constantly, add the peanuts, scallions, ginger, chopped chili, chili flakes, and Szechuan peppercorns to the hot oil, cooking just until toasted, no more than 30 seconds.
  13. Return the meat to the wok and stir into the pepper and scallion mixture.
  14. Carefully add the sauce to the wok and stir to coat the meat.
  15. Add the sesame oil to the meat and stir to combine.
  16. Serve with cooked white rice.
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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2011/12/03/hot-and-numbing-rabbit/

Kitchen Passport
This is a great recipe to play with balance. Try varying the heat by changing the amounts of hot chilies and Szechuan peppercorns. Try varying the salty-sweet balance by playing with the soy sauce and sweet Shaoxing wine amounts. While this recipe specifies rabbit or chicken, the same seasonings and preparation are equally great when prepared with thin slices of lean pork or beef. Serve the pork or beef rolled in a thin pancake with fresh cilantro instead of with rice.

Writing a Book: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Writing our first book, The World in a Skillet, was a great experience. We met wonderful people and ate their delicious food. Now with our second book, Farm Fresh Tennessee, we are meeting even more people and our experiences with them are more participatory. All in all, it has been a fantastic experience.

If there is anything bad, it is the tremendous amount of time we have spent on the road away from our family, which of course includes our pets. So far, there hasn’t been anything ugly, but last weekend may have finally given me something.

The Good

Driving down Steep Rock Hill Road, we got to the intersection at Hardscrabble Lane (No, really, those are the real names.) and saw this in the road:

Nabs

He got out of the way of our car, but after we passed, I looked in the rear view mirror and saw him just lie down on the lines in the middle of the road. Of course we turned around and went back. He had no tag or collar and he hadn’t been neutered, so we didn’t think he had a home. The absence of nearby houses made us pretty sure. No problem, a stop at the pet store for a collar, a leash, food, and bowls, and he had a home. Since Angela used cheese and crackers to lure an initially shy puppy, his name is Nabs. (Please tell me I’m not going to have to put a glossary on the blog.)

The Bad

Okay, this isn’t really bad, but I need something to help complete my triptych. Since I already complained about long drives, I might as well talk about mountain roads. Our best (worst?) experience has been a 1.5 lane gravel road, a hairpin turn, and an oncoming dump truck. Thank goodness the Prius is small.

On this trip, we encountered a sign that read “Switchbacks next 11 miles: Truckers consider turning around for an alternate route.” Three more “All hope abandon” signs later, and we hit the turns. And the fog. 11 miles later, we drove into the lovely, flat town of Shady Valley, Tennessee. A mile later, as we left Shady Valley, “Switchbacks next 11 miles: Truckers consider turning around for an alternate route.” I think the valley is shady because the sun is scared to come over those roads.

So if there was anything even close to bad (And there wasn’t. We laughed the whole way.), it would be this curve:

Mountain road 1

followed by this curve:

Mountain road 2

in this weather:

Mountain fog

The Ugly

This is the ugly:

Lyme disease

Yes, that’s my belly. And no, that’s not the ugly part. That little red bullseye is a characteristic sign of Lyme disease. According to the CDC and my doctor, I’m not going to die. I get a strong round of doxycycline — “Be careful taking this. It can eat a hole in your esophagus.” Oh, joy.

Ironically, Good led to Ugly. Poor Nabs was covered in ticks. We washed him in flea and tick shampoo as soon as we got home, but that still left plenty of time on the way home for me to get a dread disease. Just my luck. Oh well. If I go to my reward, at least Angela got a replacement for me out of the deal. Plus she gets all the royalties. Hey, put down those insurance forms…

Basic to Brilliant, Y’all

Basic to Brilliant, Y'all

Welcome to our dish for the Virtual Potluck with Virginia Willis. Buy Virginia’s book then fill out this form to get a personalized bookplate from Virginia.

Is it wrong to start this by saying that I really love Basic to Brilliant, Y’all? Because I do. Virginia Willis subtitled this book 150 Refined Southern Recipes and Ways to Dress Them Up for Company, and that’s exactly what they are. They’re all great recipes that will make for wonderful meals on your table. That’s the Basic part. Virginia brings the Brilliant part in by giving you a variation or add-on that will turn that better-than-everyday meal into something you’d be proud to serve to anyone on any occasion or to make leftovers into something special.

Virginia shows her heart through these recipes. In her introduction to the Fish and Shellfish section, she talks about going to the beach as a little girl and transitions that into talking about the seafood industry in the South and how important it is to support the industry in the Gulf. The stories she gives along with the recipes give you glimpses into her childhood, her life in France, and some of the challenges that have come along in her career. Mixed in you’ll find Virginia’s answers and advice on questions dealing with everything from choosing the right salt to freezing casseroles to storing fresh mussels.

Behind all these recipes and stories is what really makes this a special book, simply, Virginia herself. Her wit, wisdom, and Southern charm come through loud and clear. And the book is as beautiful as the lady who wrote it. The photos will make your mouth water.

Now, about the food.

We made (Actually, it was Patric who made it because he’s useful that way.) Mama’s Spaghetti Bolognese with Venison first. We sat down and had our first bites. And my dear sweet son promptly said, “I love this spaghetti. This is the best meat sauce ever. Um… I mean, I like yours, Mom, and, um… yours is just as good but different?” Don’t worry. He lived long enough to wolf the spaghetti down before there were any pictures, but that was okay, because I had another recipe in mind to share anyway, but I’m sure Virginia will like knowing that her sauce is the best ever, and that’s just fine by me.

The recipe I really wanted to do was her Mama’s Fried Quail with Cream Gravy. I love quail. They’re one of those things that I wouldn’t eat as a child (along with duck after a traumatizing buckshot incident) but found the value of as an adult. The only real thing to worry about when cooking them is to not overdo it. There’s really not that much meat on there, and it doesn’t take long for them to end up dry and flavorless. But use Virginia’s techniques and times, and you won’t have a problem. These were wonderful.

Paul isn’t a big fan of Dijon mustard, but Patric and I are, so he had to eat it anyway and smile about it. Not really. He liked it more than he had expected. But if someone in your house doesn’t, I think it would be fine to decrease the amount, use a different mustard, or just add a few dashes of hot sauce to the gravy instead.

Disclaimer: We received this book as a free review copy from the publisher.

Mama's Fried Quail with Cream Gravy

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

To make the recipe brilliant, make Virginia's warm mustard relish: Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon each yellow and brown mustard seeds. When they start to pop and release their aroma, about 5 seconds, add 3 onions, preferably Vidalia, sliced and season with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high. Add 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vinegar is reduced and the onions are a deep golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup. Serve a dollop of the warm mustard relish with the quail and gravy.

Ingredients

  • 10 whole quail
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • 1 sprig thyme, plus more to garnish
  • 1 cup homemade chicken stock or reduced-fat low-sodium chicken broth
  • 1 cup heavy cream, half-and-half, or whole milk
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Pat the quail dry; tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Season with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow bowl and season with salt and pepper. One at a time, dredge the quail in the flour, then shake to remove any excess flour.
  2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon each of the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Without crowding and working in batches with the remaining butter and oil, add the quail and sear on both sides until deep brown, about 3 minutes per side. Sprinkle the thyme over the birds and transfer the skillet with all the quail to the oven.
  3. Roast until cooked through but still pink, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the quail to a warm platter; tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.
  4. Place the skillet on the stovetop over high heat. Add the stock and cream. Stir with a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits from the skillet. Bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the mustard. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
  5. Pour the gravy over the quail. Garnish with thyme; serve immediately.
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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2011/09/27/basic-to-brilliant-yall/

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