Food and Stories

Days like today always get me thinking about the comfort food of my childhood and the people who provided it. I haven’t written much about it for anyone but myself, but my grandmother died in early January almost two years ago. It wasn’t unexpected; she wasn’t in a lot of pain; but that didn’t make it any easier. It’s one of those things that you aren’t prepared for no matter how far in advance you know it’s coming.

After she was gone, I cooked and I wrote. Those were my ways of saying good-bye. And while I was doing both I started thinking about how important food was in her story.

She grew up in a sharecropper shack in north Mississippi in the 1920s. They were one of those families who didn’t feel the effects of the Depression because they were already living on such a thin margin. She always talked about how they ate — the watered down soups that would stretch into two meals for seven people, the excitement over a piece of meat coming home, the lunches she packed for her younger brother and sister instead of for herself.

The first job she had that took her away from the cotton fields was to work with food. She made pies and waited tables in a little cafe when she was 14. She got married at 17 and went straight to Gulfport, Mississippi, with her husband and the Army. Food was important there, too. She was proud that his friends brought her chickens to fry for them because they liked the way she did it. And she did do it even though she couldn’t eat chicken herself without getting sick. She spent $40 back then for a cooking encyclopedia because she wanted to learn more than she knew about food from all over the world that she had never tasted.

When my mother and aunt were growing up, she would get up at 4:00am to make breakfast — fried chicken for my grandfather, a hamburger for my aunt, a perfect fried egg for my mother. She did this every day. And then she went to work.

When I came along, food was something she could give me. Cornbread, soups, cakes, and pies — she made them all something special for me. Yes, I was spoiled. If I asked for anything back then, I got it. But it meant a lot to her to be able to give it to me. I remember her fixing graham crackers and milk for me when I didn’t feel like eating anything else. Hot mugs of Ovaltine (It was more nutritious than cocoa.) during the winter. Coffee milk to make me feel all grown up.

There were foods that I think we all took for granted. Every year for Christmas she made a coconut cake for my grandfather. It was a lot of work – from cracking and draining the coconut and grating the meat to boiling the frosting and putting it all together. It was his favorite, but we all loved it. He died when I was 14, and she never made another coconut cake.

I made the food for her wake. It wasn’t something I had to do. It wasn’t something she would have asked me to do. But it was important to me to give food back to her. I made things she would have loved — pimento cheese, cheese straws, key lime cookies, potted meat. It was a lot of work. I cried a lot while I was making it. But it was what I needed to do for her, for me.

Days like today are the ones I miss her most. These are the days when I would call her and spend an hour on the phone talking about when she was a little girl or when my mother was growing up or when she was herself. And those calls would always end with her asking me what I was making for dinner.

Coffee Milk

Total Time: 10 minutes

Yield: 1 serving

Yes, there is as much sugar as there is coffee in this. Yes, that's not a lot of coffee in relation to the milk. Yes, that's a lot of sugar. But that's the way it's supposed to be. What you're looking for is a barely brown sweet drink with just a hint of actual coffee flavor.

You can serve this hot. When my grandmother gave it to me hot, she always put an ice cube in it to cool it down enough for me to drink it without burning my mouth. You can add cocoa or chocolate syrup to coffee milk if you have a child who wants chocolate. Think of it as a mini mocha.

You can also make it with tea. I prefer a more bitter tea most of the time, but it's also really good with Darjeeling if you can get around doing that to a really great tea. And if you're an adult having a child moment, feel free to splash in some Bailey's or Kahlua or cognac or any other "seasoning" of your choice.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup whole milk, divided
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons cold coffee

Instructions

  1. Dissolve the sugar in 1/4 cup of the milk.
  2. Stir the coffee and the rest of the cold milk into the mixture until blended.
  3. Serve in a big cup for little hands.
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Why We Don’t Buy Bagels

We bought bagels at Costco. Sure we bought smoked salmon, but we bought more bagels than smoked salmon and a whole lot more cream cheese. I love bagels. If there are bagels around I will eat them. To the exclusion of other food. When there are bagels, I am a bad person.

“Mom, I’m hungry.”

“You can cook. Feed yourself. Oh, and toast a bagel for me while you’re in there.”

See? Bad person.

I talk about learning to make bagels myself, but down that road lies danger. If I had bagels, my family would starve.

Of course, we will run out of bagels before we run out of cream cheese. Logic would dictate that we would then need more bagels. But it’s Christmas. There are other uses for cream cheese.

Fudge? Yeah, but that’s a whole lot of work.

Some sort of seasoned dip or spread? Whatever.

Cream cheese snowmen? Oh, hell yes.

I grew up eating cream cheese snowmen. They may sound simple, but there’s an art to making them. You have to have 3 balls of cream cheese in the proper size ratio to make a snowman. If the base is too large, it won’t look right. If the head is too small, well, no one wants a pin head snowman.

And then there’s the size. A good one won’t be more than 2 inches tall. Any taller than that, and you would have to take him apart to eat him. That just kind of ruins the spirit of the whole thing. Yes, if you make them bigger you can use pretzel sticks for the arms, but you have to ask yourself if it’s really worth that to lose that one bite of gooey snowman glory. After all, you can always just dip your pretzels in the leftover cream cheese.

So, balls in the proper ration, small size. What’s left? You have to decorate them. Who wants a snowman that’s just snow? Sesame seeds make good buttons, and you can use them for eyes if you don’t have anything else. If you have nigella seeds, they’re smaller and black and perfect for snowman eyes and for making snowman mouths. If you want to go what is most probably overboard, you can dye some sesame seeds red to make noses. Little bitty pieces of carrot work, too, and they make really good arms. That’s what I always got. The carrot is a vegetable, vegetables are nutritious, therefore snowmen with carrot noses and arms are nutritious!

So, salmon runs out, then bagels run out, then the snowmen run out. They say that post-Christmas depression is caused by all sorts of things like weather and family and general stress. But I know. It’s because there are no more cream cheese snowmen.

But while you’re up, stick another bagel in the oven for me, ok? Thanks!

Children, Nutrition, and Food That’s Good to Eat

The Child Nutrition Reauthorization Act was in the news a lot recently, and YEAH!, it finally passed. The gist of the thing is that healthier food in schools would mean healthier kids in school which would mean healthier learning for those kids so that they have a better chance of being successful in life later on. Oh, and the First Lady thinks that a part of better nutrition would be to get kids moving around instead of sitting around. Seems to make good sense, no?

Nutritious school food is not something that has never been. My grandmother was a lunchroom lady back in the really dark ages when my mom was in school. She made food from scratch every day. Her hot yeast rolls developed back then, and they turned into favorites that the kids she fed still remember as well as the rest of her family. She made soups, vegetables, meat. There were no salads, but there was no box of stuff in the freezer that she couldn’t identify as real food because it was made mostly with ingredients that she couldn’t pronounce.

Even back in the dark ages when Paul and I were in school, back when there wasn’t technology greater than the big floppy disks running rampant, there was healthy school food. There were people in the cafeteria who actually cooked most of it. Hamburgers? Made there. Vegetables? Made there. Mystery meat? Yep. Made there too.

Was it all good food? Well, no. But it was nutritious without being full of fat and sodium. It wasn’t something that just had to be reheated. There was always fish on Fridays. Chocolate milk and pizza (those rectangular slices that are pure nostalgia now) were special treats that you earned once a month for being good in the lunch room. And, whether you liked the vegetables or not, you had to eat them. Paul didn’t have it because he went to a larger school, but my elementary school teachers didn’t let us leave the cafeteria until those vegetables were gone. Maybe that was a reason for bringing your own lunch or for learning creative bargaining, but you ate real food. In fact, it wasn’t until I went to private school in junior high that pizza and chicken sandwiches and chips and cokes were available as daily options.

So where did it all change to the point that this bill is needed?

I didn’t realize how much things had changed until Patric was in school. He complained about the food, of course. I expected that from my own forced vegetable consumption. But his complaints were different. A commonly served meat was breaded fried chicken rings. I don’t know about you, but the only parts of a chicken that are rings are not parts I would want to eat. There were vegetables, but they didn’t have to get them on their trays or eat them if they didn’t want to. And sometimes, too often really, those vegetables were still cold. The meats were still frozen in the middle. The milk, chocolate or white, was sour and past its serve-by date. Does this happen all the time at all schools in the city? No. But the fact that it happens at all at any school in the city is not a sign of a healthy food system.

Why did this happen? In my opinion it was because there wasn’t a lunch lady back in the kitchen. There wasn’t someone who liked to see the children smile when they saw that today’s lunch was one of their favorites. Instead, there were people who had to know how to warm things up. Sometimes these people were employed by an outsourced food service instead of by the school. But what it boiled down to is that there was no one in the kitchen who actually knew how and wanted to cook food for children from scratch, even though the recipes for them were out there.

There are a lot of reasons behind this — lower labor costs, centralized and consistent food sourcing, food producer and agricultural lobbies. But while the intentions of it all may have been good and not just about profit margins, the results have been less than stellar. The systems seems to work from a misconception that children won’t eat food they don’t like, and that the food they do like is fried and salty with a big dose of sweet on the side. It’s not true. If children are offered fresh fruits and vegetables that aren’t cooked to mush every day, even the picky kids (I had to have the crusts cut off of my sandwiches, and you would never have seen me eat green peas at home.) will learn to like some of them just as much as the processed foods they eat today. Yes, there will always be some things that some or even most children just won’t like. I shudder as boiled Brussels sprouts come to mind. But they’ll also find plenty of things that they do like just from repeated exposure.

In Memphis, the importance of healthy food in schools cannot be underestimated. For too many students, the food they eat at school is their primary source of nutrition. Through no fault of their own, these children need that food for breakfast and for lunch. It’s easy to point blame at the people who aren’t providing it at home for whatever reason, but that doesn’t solve the problem or help the children. They need healthy food. They need to learn what healthy food is. They need to know that a good meal has more than one color on the plate. Personally, I believe that if their parents had been taught more about that, these kids would be a lot more likely to get that at home.

It would be great if they could all eat locally grown food with no pesticides or chemicals added for preservation. It would be even better if they all could learn to grow gardens to always have that food. It would be wonderful if they could all be taught to cook healthy meals with that food. It would be good. But that can’t happen, at least not without taking resources away from dealing with the other problems in our schools.

So it’s up our government to encourage it and up to us as parents and citizens to make sure that they get at least one good, reliable thing — simple, healthy food with the occasional slice of square school pizza thrown in.

The Closest Thing to School Pizza That We Could Make

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Yield: 10

This isn't exactly right, but it comes closer than anything I've had since elementary school. It's pure nostalgia.

The recipes on the website make a minimum quantity of 5 1/2 sheet pans, so this recipe was scaled to make only 1. I was very skeptical about this crust. The recipe is for "Pourable Pizza Crust." Yep. Pourable. I was worried, but it worked surprisingly well.

If you don't want a spicy topping, use ground pork instead of Italian sausage or use breakfast sausage to make it even more like the pizza we had as children.

This can be made as a cheese pizza by eliminating the meat from the topping mixture. Alternatively, you could use beef instead of pork. If you want pepperoni, make the topping as you would for a cheese pizza. Add the pepperoni before topping with the cheese.

Ingredients

    For the crust:
  • 1 3/4 teaspoon dry active yeast
  • 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 3/4 cups warm milk
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • warm water if needed
  • 3 tablespoons cornmeal
  • For the topping:
  • 1/2 pound Italian sausage or ground pork, crumbled into small pieces
  • 1 tablespoon diced onion or 1 teaspoon onion powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon fennel seed
  • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon oregano
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon sage
  • 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 8 ounces mozzarella cheese

Instructions

    To make the crust:
  1. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.
  2. Combine the yeast, flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl, stirring to distribute the yeast evenly.
  3. Add the vegetable oil and continue stirring until combined.
  4. Add the warm milk and stir to create a lumpy batter.
  5. Generously grease a 1/2 sheet pan.
  6. Sprinkle the pan evenly with the cornmeal.
  7. Pour the batter into the sheet pan, spreading it evenly. Allow it to rest for 20 minutes.
  8. Pierce the dough with a fork and bake in the oven for 12 minutes.
  9. Remove the crust from the oven and pierce again before topping.
  10. To make the topping:
  11. Combine all of the topping ingredients in a medium skillet.
  12. Cook the topping over medium heat for 15 minutes, stirring constantly.
  13. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking until the crust is done.
  14. To make the pizza:
  15. Reduce the oven temperature to 425 degrees.
  16. Spread the topping in an even layer over the crust all the way to the edges. Sprinkle evenly with cheese.
  17. Return the pizza to the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until the cheese is melted and beginning to brown.
  18. To serve, slice the pizza into 10 even, rectangular slices.
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Oh Costco, Why Must You Tempt Me So?

We went to Costco this afternoon. We had every intention of staying inside today and avoiding the cold, but there are some things that you just have to go get when you run out. Ergo, we went.

We’re normally fairly good about just getting what we came for when we go, but we didn’t stick to that today. We justified it because it is our grocery trip for the week, but we were no where near as good as we should have been. There were ramen noodles — we needed those because they’re cheap, easy, and yummy. Apple juice? It’s just that time of year, and apple juice is good for you. Bread? Have you seen a sixteen year old boy put bread away? Cheddar? We would have gotten that anyway. Milk? Everybody needs milk.

Everything was justifiable there. But they had samples. Of smoked salmon. And it was good.

Smoked salmon led to bagels led to cream cheese. It was very logical. It just made sense.

We would have had to buy dog food anyway, and you might not think we would need the set of 5 pairs of kitchen scissors, but we do. We always know we have scissors somewhere, but we never know where they are. It’s a mystery.

And the pea coat I got was cute. And I’ve been good. Mostly.

And so, after our arduous journey into the jaws of Christmas shopping, we were tired tonight. And we have lots of bread. Peanut butter sandwiches all around!!

Tomorrow, we will cook.

A Bubba Kind of Day

It’s cold today. Really cold. Tell the dog to hold it cold. It’s not going to be above freezing again until Tuesday.

I know. I shouldn’t complain. We’re not in Minnesota or Wisconsin or anywhere that snow is measured in feet. But this is Memphis, dammit! For us, this is cold.

And so, it’s been a Bubba kind of day. What is a Bubba kind of day you might ask? Or you might not, but I’m going to tell you anyway.

Bubba is our cat. He’s a very special cat. We rescued him before he was even weaned, and he sucked on our earlobes for a year whenever he was hungry. It was disturbing, but still cute. When we brought him home, it was cold, and he was tiny. So he spent his first week with us wrapped in a scarf around my neck so that he would be warm and feel comforted. It was sweet. We broke him.

He still has affection issues, even after five years. He’s not so much a lap cat as he is a snuggler. He jumps on our bed at night and walks up to our heads, purring all the way. He crawls onto your shoulder so that he can tuck his head under your chin and you can pull the covers over him. There is still the occasional ear sucking until he falls asleep. And he does fall asleep. He will stay there for hours if you let him.

So today, we let him. There’s nothing as tempting as a soft warm bed and snuggling on a cold day. There has been plenty of napping on all parts. It was just that kind of day.

Tomorrow promises to be just like today. It will be very very cold in the morning. There will be no way any of us will want to be in the kitchen any longer than we have to be with the drafts we have in there. So, there is planning. A quick noodle soup in the wok for lunch, some type of comfort food for supper. But we need something nice and warm to start the day, something my mom would have said would stick to your ribs. Nothing fills that bill or tastes as good as hot oatmeal on a cold morning, but it’s not something I want to wake up and cook. So instead, we’re going to cook it tonight. All night. And tomorrow when we wake up, it will be there waiting for us, hot and sweet and comforting. And then we’ll feel warm all day.

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