Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All

Bitters cover
Before I embark on a review of Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas I must admit to two things. First, I am proud to call the author, Brad Thomas Parsons, a friend. Angela and I lost our chicken-on-a-stick virginity with him and the Homesick Texan at the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium. Appropriately enough, the theme that year was drinkways.

Second, I am not much of a drinker. Any halfway intelligent and conscientious eater could potentially review a cookbook or a restaurant. How, though, can a cheap-date near teetotaller like myself possibly review this book? I can answer that question — and honestly, give my entire review — with a single word, transformative.

Since I received Bitters, I have purchased a cocktail shaker and both Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters. I have ordered hard-to-find bitters online. (I mourn all the bitters I can’t afford. Yet.) I have finally cracked open a bottle of Woodford Reserve bourbon. I have made my own cocktails at home. To sum things up, Brad’s book has me really excited.

And the thrill is not just for the novice drinker. Anyone with an appreciation of a pleasant adult beverage will enjoy the book. You will learn the history of bitters, how they began their resurgence, who is making the finest craft bitters today, and even how to make your own bitters.

Oh, and there are enough drink recipes to keep you shaken and stirred for some time to come.

We started with a classic, the old fashioned. Given our limited collection of ingredients, we won’t be rushing through all the drinks right away, but I already know that we will be acquiring more. I see a bottle of rye in our near future.

I am really going to enjoy having this book, and you will too, whether you’re just starting to spread your cocktail wings or looking to expand your repertoire. Either way, cheers!

Disclaimer: We received this book as a free review copy from the publisher.

Old-Fashioned

Serving Size: 1 drink

Eight parts rye or bourbon to one part simple syrup seemed like a lot of alcohol to me, but the syrup is a potent sweetener. I didn't add quite enough Angostura my first time. If you're a novice like me, I recommend sipping from your mixing glass the way you would taste from the pot. You can also add an extra drop or two to your glass if you have invested in bottles with droppers like I plan to.

Ingredients

  • 2 ounces rye or bourbon
  • 1/4 ounce simple syrup
  • 3 dashes Angostura or other aromatic bitters
  • Garnish: thick piece of lemon or orange zest

Instructions

  1. Combine the rye or bourbon, simple syrup, and bitters in a mixing glass filled with ice.
  2. Stir until chilled and strain into a chilled double old-fashioned glass filled with large pieces of cracked ice or a large ice cube.
  3. Garnish with the lemon or orange zest.
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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2011/09/19/bitters-a-spirited-history-of-a-classic-cure-all/

The Casserole Queens Cookbook

“A casserole cookbook?”

Angela was bemused when she opened the mail and found The Casserole Queens Cookbook: Put Some Lovin’ in Your Oven with 100 Easy One-Dish Recipes by Crystal Cook and Sandy Pollock published by Clarkson Potter. Still, it wasn’t long before she had flipped through the book and found at least half a dozen recipes she wanted to try.

Cook and Pollock started a business delivering casseroles in Austin. Over the years, their business grew as did their fame, including an appearance on Throwdown! with Bobby Flay. Flay provided a blurb for the front cover, while our friend Martha Foose blurbs on the back. Martha compares Cook and Pollock to hip home-ec teachers who even provide “an apron pattern right off the bat.” This is one of the rare occasions where Martha misses the mark, though. The first recipe is for the margaritas they were drinking when they came up with the idea for their business. Sorry, Martha, but margaritas top aprons every time. This book really has potential.

For me, a good cookbook goes beyond being a collection of recipes. There must either be a lesson involved or a riveting story. The book does have cute snippets of stories, but its strong point is as a teaching tool. Yeah, okay, like Angela said, “casseroles?” Sure, casseroles are easy. You just mix up some stuff, put it in a pan, and stick it in the oven. But if it’s that easy, why don’t more people do it?

The Casserole Queens teach you how to stock your pantry to make sure you have ingredients for easy-to-make dishes on hand always. They teach you about the gadgets that are worthwhile kitchen additions. Best of all, they give you a simple but invaluable introduction to cooking techniques that will make your food taste great. I’m particularly glad that they talk about putting salt in the water when you blanch your vegetables and cook your pasta. I’m a firm believer that that touch of salt up front is far better for you than salting for flavor at the table.

Yeah, but what about the recipes? Here again the Casserole Queens did well. Casseroles do bring to mind spiral-bound church cookbooks and cream of mushroom soup, and that sort of thing is included with flair. The first recipe we looked at — and made — was the Keep Austin Weird Spam Casserole. We had to make that.

Beyond the kitsch is a collection of gourmet recipes ranging from osso bucco to lobster. Sides, desserts, and breakfasts are included as well. Again, it’s the little extras that make this a winner. Of course you can open a can of cream of mushroom soup for your casserole, or you can make your own with the recipe given. You can also make your own salsa verde, pizza dough, or pickled jalapeños (I can hear Austin singing just thinking about those.). Many of the items you need can be made from scratch if you want, but there’s no shame it taking the easy way as long as you can bring your family to the table.

The only negative I could mention is that many of these casseroles aren’t really one dish meals. Like anything else, there’s always something. Starchy vegetables and pasta need to be precooked; eggs need to be beaten. You’re going to have an extra dish to wash. But don’t sweat it. These dishes are worth it.

Disclaimer: We received this book as a free review copy from the publisher.

The Casserole Queens

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 55 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Yield: 6 servings`

I don't like cooking spray, so I coated my dish very lightly with butter instead. We had multiple varieties of paprika on the shelf, so we chose to use a half-sharp variety. Sweet paprika would be nice, and smoked paprika would add a whole different dimension of flavor. Cream of mushroom soup would be good for the liquid if you don't care for the flavor of celery. A cheese sauce would be a great replacement, too. You might also consider adding a touch of garlic, toasted onion, cayenne pepper, or any salt-free herb blend. SPAM is salty on its own, so you don't need to add more salt. I would have preferred the SPAM to be in smaller pieces throughout the dish instead of the slices.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds russet potatoes, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • Cooking spray
  • 1/2 cup sliced onions
  • 1 (12-ounce) can SPAM
  • 1 10 3/4-ounce) can cream of celery soup
  • 1 cup evaporated milk
  • 1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper
  • Paprika

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350.
  2. Put the potatoes in a saucepan with 2 cups of water and the salt. Cover the pan and set it over high heat. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 to 8 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
  3. Lightly coat a 9 x 13-inch casserole dish with cooking spray. Put half of the potatoes in the pan and cover with onion. Cut the SPAM into 14 slices and layer 9 slices over the onion. Top with the remaining potatoes.
  4. Combine the soup, milk, and green pepper, and pour over the casserole. Sprinkle with paprika and top the dish with the remaining 5 slices of SPAM. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.
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http://www.paulandangela.net/blog/2011/09/06/the-casserole-queens-cookbook/

Food and Archaeology in Okra

Okra screenshot

I had a lot of fun talking to archaeologist Warren Oster of Weaver and Associates and paleoethnobotanist Dr. Katherine Mickelson of the Department of Earth Sciences at the University of Memphis. I learned a lot too. Plus it’s really cool to see an article you wrote on a scrolling marquee.

To learn what I did, read my article at Okra, then check out the rest of the magazine and its parent organization, the Southern Food and Beverage Museum.

Happy Anniversary, Angela

Nearing the end of our ten-hour drive home from Austin, Texas, and the IACP conference, the lights of Memphis just beginning to brighten the horizon, ten minutes left in our sixth anniversary, Free Bird comes on XM. The ultimate breakup song and I realize why, what it all means. “Too many places I gotta see.” I have it made because she wants to see those places, too.

Happy anniversary, Angela. I love you.

Vito’s Cucina, Memphis, Tennessee

We had an afternoon of errands, and we were starved by the time we headed home. Since we’re heading out in the morning for Austin, Texas, we really didn’t want to cook food and make a mess of the kitchen tonight. And, we’ve pretty much eaten everything we had in the house that isn’t frozen since we knew we were leaving.

So, we had to decide what was for supper. We drive down Walnut Grove all the time, and we’ve watched eagerly as an old shop has been remodeled. When we saw that it was going to be an Italian drive-thru/walk-up, we knew we’d be trying it soon. Since it was on our way home, our decision was made.

Ordering at Vito’s is easy. They’ll help you through the menu and offer suggestions. Their menu is on their website, and I would advise you to take a look before you go. And one note – if you want a whole pizza, call in the order for carry-out, or Vito’s will deliver.

How was the food? Pretty good. We started with the toasted cheese ravioli. These were really well done. The filling is creamy ricotta, and the coating is crisp without being tough or oily. The marinara is bright and not too sweet. Overall, I would happily make a meal of these.

Toasted ravioli from Vito's

Next, we tried the breadsticks. These are nice with a good coating of garlic and parmesan, but they seemed a little under-done to me; I like mine to be a little crisper on the outside, but these were definitely edible.

We split a couple of sandwiches, too. The Vinnie is a meatball sub on good French bread. This was a great sandwich – the meatballs were soft and flavorful, and it wasn’t drowning in sauce. This sandwich vanished quickly into the bottomless pit that is our son.

The Joseph from Vito's

The Joseph is a muffaletta-style sandwich. The olive spread is really good, but I think we would have preferred the sandwich to be heated. I’m sure Vito’s would heat it on request. Hot or not, we enjoyed it.

The centurion pizza from Vito's

Then we got to the pizza. We got a Centurion (Italian sausage, salami, pancetta, ham, cheese, tomatoes, black olives and banana peppers). This is a nicely made pizza. The toppings are generous, and the sauce is just right. Like the breadsticks, we thought the crust was a little underdone, but it was still thin and crisp without getting soggy. And it was probably our fault. We didn’t know that we needed to call ahead for a whole pie, but they took pity on us and made it for us on the spot.

Overall, we had a good meal, and I’m sure that we’ll be dining with Vito’s again.

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