A restaurant review, really! Cafe 1912

Are you thinking the same thing I am? Wasn’t this blog supposed to be about fine dining? Sumptuous suppers? Delectable dinners? Annoying alliteration? Well, ok, maybe we have that one in hand. I’m not sure how wise it was to start the pantry cleaning campaign right after starting a dining blog, but that’s how it worked out. One of the things we will have to sustain us in the potentially lean days ahead will be fond memories of fine meals.

One of the finest meals of recent memory was a trip to Cafe 1912 for our first anniversary. Mama Squirrel, Squirrely, Jr., and I all shared in this special evening.

Cafe 1912 is a cozy French bistro at the corner of Peabody and Cooper in midtown. There is an open kitchen for entertainment indoors and seating outdoors for entertainment cynically betting on the progression of ever-changing Memphis weather. The seating area out back is quite nice. Isolated from the noise of the road, it is very comfortable. Since teh boy is a fan of cooking as well as eating, we chose to dine inside at a table right by the kitchen.

We began the evening all sharing a bowl of French onion soup. The soup was typical but very good. Of course the best part of French onion soup is playing with the long strands of cheese that dangle from your spoon. I guess we were fairly discreet though, because they didn’t throw us out. We thought our homemade version compares favorably, but we didn’t have much chance to consider it as Squirrelly, Jr., scarfed up most of the soup.

As appetizers we chose pommes frites and baked oysters in pernod butter. The frites are wonderful. Drizzled with truffle oil and sprinkled with parmesan, teh boy asked if they were gourmet cheese fries. We insisted that they weren’t, but the more we said no, the more he seemed right. However you define them, the frites are delicious.

The baked oysters in pernod butter were also very good. Teh boy wasn’t thrilled, but we have noticed that he tends to prefer oysters raw or only lightly cooked. Mama and I both thought they were nicely cooked and still retained the taste of the sea.

My entree, the daily special, flatiron steak on horseradish mashed potatoes with red wine demiglace and asparagus spears was a success. The steak was fork tender and very tasty. The potatoes were creamy with a gentle tang from the horseradish. Mama chose the fish special, sea bass on spinach artichoke risotto with beurre blanc. The fish was perfectly pan seared. The nice artichoke sourness of the risotto was just the right compliment to the fish and creamy sauce.

Teh Boy had the only disappointing dish, barbecue shrimp and grits with a spicy tropical fruit barbecue sauce. Each individual element of the dish was good, but the barbecue sauce overpowered the dish. A drizzle instead of a drench would have done wonders.

After the entrees, we had the apple carpaccio salad to close the meal in the French style. We will do this more often in the future because a cool crisp salad does wonders for the digestion. The Cafe 1912 salad was particularly good. Apples are sliced extra thin, hence carpaccio, and lightly sprinkled with balsamic vinegar. Crisp greens and creamy blue cheese pull the salad together. Once again, teh boy scarfed up most of this dish.

The salad was sweet and pleasing enough on its own, but its primary purpose was to prepare us for dessert. From an exciting list we chose the creme brulee of the day, vanilla. Like starting the meal with French onion soup cheese, the fun part of ending the meal is arguing over who gets to break the layer of carmelized sugar atop the creamy custard. Fortunately for us, the creme brulee is served shallow in a farily broad dish so on the count of three we all got to break the crust. The fight ended up being over the fresh fruit. Like pretty much everything else, dessert was great.

Service was friendly but inconsistent. When we arrived for our reservation, our table wasn’t available yet. We were offered an outdoor table instead, but we wanted to be near the kitchen. We were promised water while we waited, but it never arrived.

The atmosphere is very pleasant. Not too noisy, but with plenty of activity from the kitchen for added interest. This was our second trip to Cafe 1912, and we will definitely go back. Next time we will probably each get our own bowl of soup though.

Two and a half Acorns
Cafe 1912
243 S Cooper St
Memphis, TN 38104
(901) 722-2700

The difference an "X" can make

When I was a teenager, anything XXX would have delighted me to no end. Now I am much older, one X short, and not thrilled at all.

I work in information technology. We get free t-shirts regularly. It’s a way for us to recognize each other without having to go around sniffing everyone’s breath for caffeinated mints. Recently I got another t-shirt, an XXL because that’s all they had left. I put the t-shirt on the stack and didn’t think much about it. Just the other day, I finally popped it off the stack and put it on. My first impression was that it was a nice, well-fitting shirt. That’s when it hit me. It’s an XXL shirt.

I haven’t really had a problem wearing an XL shirt. To my mind, that is pretty much the size that every man wears. Men’s sizes smaller than that are just a marketing ploy to force you to pay adult prices for your kid’s clothes as they start to grow up. But now I have gone from extra to extra extra, more than more, jumbo.

All sorts of things have gotten me to this point — two weeks on steroids, eating to cheer up when I was depressed and single, eating to celebrate life now that I am happy with my squad. Still, I am the one who has gotten me here. Extra extra read all about it. I’m fat. (I could be PC and say overweight, but I’m saving bandwidth just saying fat. And it’s about me anyway and I know I’m fat.)

I have a good friend and coworker who is in a similar situation. He is unhappy to be buying new pants seemingly more often than he buys new video games. You have to give him credit though. He has just quit smoking after many years. The weight is not healthy for him either, but he has taken a big step by quitting smoking. I think he will take the next step and work off the weight.

How does one take that step though? And how does one keep on stepping? Dinner of a sliver of boneless, skinless chicken breast, brown rice and a broccoli floret is all well and good, but if later that night you are scarfing down cheese dip or the next day it’s pepperoni pizza with extra cheese for dinner, it’s just not going to work.

Man does not live by bread or boneless, skinless breast alone. I am certainly not going to give up variety and excitement in my diet, and I’m not going to ask the squad to. I know that I can create healthy, delicious meals. What I can’t do, so far, is do it regularly. What does it take to stop saying, “man, I don’t feel like cutting up fruit this morning. I’ll just drive thru for a biscuit.” What does it take to keep dinner from being a knock at the door?

I think the key is to keep my eyes on the prize. First I don’t want to outgrow all those t-shirts I have hoarded. How will my geek compatriots recognize me without them? What really matters though is Squirrelly, Jr. I want him to grow up healthy. Plus I want to be healthy during my time with him. Best of all I just may add years to my life and be around that much longer to torment him. That should be motivation enough.

Squirrels in crisis

It may be that the next entry will come from the sewers of Paris (Tennessee of course, we’re not buying groceries, so airfare is probably not gonna be in the plan now is it?). However, instead of cradling a loaf of bread a la Jean Valjean, I will be clutching a fistful of tea bags pilfered from the workplace. Only two days into our quest to live off the fat of the pantry, we have discovered that we are out of tea bags.

For those of you out there who can’t comprehend the crisis of a lack of sweet iced tea, I’m not sure how to even begin to explain to you. Surely there is something in your life that is a parallel. If not, my only suggestion is to try holding your breath — for two weeks. I have discussed the dilemma with my one truly southerner coworker. He agrees that a meal just isn’t the same when drinking anything other than iced tea. He did suggest that we might try iced coffee though.

Some digging in the pantry revealed enough Crystal Light pink lemonade for perhaps a week. There is also maybe a six pack worth of random beers. We have some cabernet, including a spectacular 1991 bottle. There is a bottle of calvados and half a jug of sangria. And now there is a fistful of pilfered tea bags to get us through. Honor and experiments are all well and good, but this is sweet tea we’re talking about. Now I just hope the rationing plan works.

Living high on the hog while scraping the bottom of the barrel

When you receive an unexpected bill while planning a foodie pilgrimage, what is there to do? You have to pay the bill. You can’t really cook well when the ceiling leak is dripping on the stove, and if those termites keep going, the refrigerator will end up in the basement. On the other hand, there’s that big trip coming up — four star restaurants lined up one after the other. There’s no skimping on that. So what to do? Cut back of course.

Now, where does one cut back? Most financial experts say that you shouldn’t let anything interfere with your retirement planning. That’s fine with me. I’d hate to stop buying my lottery tickets. Most of the other bills are pretty important too. Car — too far to walk to work. House — too hot to sleep outside. Utilities — too hot to sleep inside. So what if the foodies cut back on food? Can we survive two weeks on just what we have in the pantry, the refrigerator, and the freezer? Can we live without going to the grocery store or to the great new farmers market downtown?

Luckily we just made a quick trip to the grocery store so the first dinner was easy — paninis. At Schnucks we bought ham, swiss, and really nice olive oil and rosemary bread from La Brea Bakery. There were only slightly scary first-effort homemade pickles, too. What really made the meal (and qualified it for our pantry cleaning) was a pre-Katrina jar of olive relish from Central Grocery in New Orleans. Bordeaux has vintages. Bordeaux ages well in a cool dark place. Olive relish? Well, this jar hasn’t aged at all fortunately. When we removed the seal and opened the jar, the aroma was an immediate transport back to New Orleans.

After our good first effort, the next step was inventory. Just what’s hiding in the dark recesses of our food storage? Our vegetable basket still has a few tomatoes and some garlic from the market. The pantry has parsley garlic linguini and olive oil. Tomorrow will be pasta pomodoro, nice, simple, delicious.

Next was a tour of the freezer. Right away there are homemade tamales made by a Honduran woman living in Southaven. All they need is a gentle steaming and maybe a bit of cheddar and diced onions. Another layer down in the freezer reveals a pork loin. Combined with the masa in the pantry, maybe we could make our own tamales. On second thought, maybe I should just grill the pork and make corn tortillas instead. When one is experimenting with the alchemy of randomness, the experiment should probably be kept as simple as possible. Besides, there’s no lard in the pantry.

Digging down more layers in the freezer, so many layers as to go from archaeology to paleontology, we found a turducken. This one goes so far back that it is from the time before Turduckenus terribilis went extinct and cajuns had to start deboning and stuffing three different birds to make a substitute. The turducken, it’s history and our experience with this prehistoric example, will have to wait for another entry, assuming we survive.

Perfect timing for perfect catfish at Taylor Grocery and Restaurant

We love catfish. We have a favorite place in town — Catfish Cabin on Airways — the catfish of my youth and still some of the best around. We also make very good catfish at home. Both are stories for another day. Today, well, ok, donut day really, the story is about the best catfish in the south — Old Taylor Grocery Store and Restaurant in Taylor, Mississippi, about 8 miles south of Oxford.

We could have asked for directions, but we’re adventurous, not to mention owners of a Toyota Prius with a snazzy GPS system. When we entered the address in Taylor, MS, we noticed a distinct vibration from the GPS that we clearly interpreted as, “Mississippi? What? Are you crazy? I’m a hybrid. I should be in California being driven by some hippie named Alice.” After a bit of complaining, the system fired up and led us straight to their front door.

Taylor is a very small little town. The road winds through until there it is — Taylor Grocery right in front of you as the road makes a sharp bend to the left. To the right of the road is a small parking area next to the volunteer fire department. When we arrived, there were eight other cars in the lot and I commented on the size of the crowd. A security guard directed us to a parking space (no painted lines).

As soon as we were parked, he let us know that the electricity was out in the restaurant. We decided that, at the very least, we should get out and look around. That way we could say we had seen the place. Luck was with us though because as soon as we closed the car doors, the lights came back on.

In case the name of the place wasn’t clear, Taylor Grocery Store and Restaurant occupies the space once held by a grocery store. The cash register is still up front on the counter. The center of the room has been cleared out to make room for tables, but the shelves line both sides of the space where the groceries once were. The shelves along one wall serve as the pantry for the restaurant. There’s nothing quite like dinner eaten while contemplating a gallon jug of Louisiana hot sauce. The other shelves, next to the register hold t-shirts of course. Maybe soon I’ll post a pic of Squirrelly, Jr., in his. No chance at all of linen or crystal, but to someone who grew up visiting a country store for rag baloney sandwiches, this was perfect ambiance.

The setting is simple but rich, and the food does its part to match. For our appetizer we went for what I think of as a barbecue joint specialty, the sausage and cheese plate which was very good. Cheddar cubes and good sausage made better with a sprinkling of chili powder and a dip in barbecue sauce.

The main course calls for a simple decision — whole or filet? Mama and Squirrelly, Jr., went for filets, while I went for whole fish. Good catfish is in the balance between sweet moist flesh and crispy browned crust. Taylor Grocery is right on the mark.

I have never had the opportunity (or the financial wherewithal for that matter) to try otoro, the fatty part of the belly of bluefin tuna, that delicious and expensive piece of sashimi said to simply melt on one’s tongue. As good as otoro must be, I doubt that it could be any better than that tiny bit of meat that clings to the dorsal (back) fin of a whole fried fish. To eat the meat, you gently suck the meat from the bones with your lips. Using your tongue, roll the meat against the roof of your mouth. This has the benefit of letting you check for bones, but the primary benefit is that the sweet, fatty meat simply melts on your tongue. Who needs otoro?

For sides we had salads with a nice vidalia onion dressing, large baked potatoes, brown rice, and french fries with rotel dip. The dressing was very good. It may have been from a bottle, but we’re not complaining. Next time we go back, we’ll ask. Of course rotel is from a can, but it’s not everywhere that you can get a guilty pleasure like this dip.

Dessert was peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream. Perfect southern cobbler, canned peaches and slightly doughy crust all pulled together by ice cream melting in the southern heat. The service was equally sweet if a bit too eager to please.

When we left, I realized that my earlier impression of a crowded parking lot was misguided. Eight cars had grown to over thirty, and there were enough people waiting outside to fill the restaurant twice over. Next time we go, they may not wait until we get there to turn on the lights, but at least we’ll enjoy the company in the parking lot.

Three Acorns
Taylor Grocery and Restaurant
4-A Cr 338
Oxford, MS 38655
(662) 236-1716

Page 96 of 97« First...102030...9394959697